One
of the fun things I researched for His
Unlikely Duchess
(and for “The Dollar Duchesses” series in general!) was the
process of being an “official” debutante at the royal court of
the nineteenth century. It was a long process, starting with getting
approved, curtsying classes, multiple visits to dressmakers,
hairdressers, and florists—and making sure you didn’t embarrass
yourself in front of the queen. (As Lily would certainly never
do!!!)
During
Victoria’s reign, the Court Drawing Rooms were held in Buckingham
Palace at four stated periods every year–two before Easter and two
after. Levées, hosted by the Prince of Wales for the presentation of
gentlemen, were held at intervals during the like season in St.
James’s Palace. Though of lessening distinction as the Victorian
period wore on, the delicious prospect of being presented to the
Queen or Prince of Wales continued to be a beacon to ambitious social
climbers.
When
the date of a drawing room was announced, letters poured into the
Lord Chamberlain, suggesting names of ladies for presentation.
Everyone who had kissed the Queen’s hand was able to nominate
another for presentation. But it wasn’t guaranteed that any name
submitted was accepted. The list underwent careful scrutiny by both
the Lord Chamberlain and the Queen, Her Majesty only receiving those
who “wore the white flower of a blameless life.”
There
were only three qualifications for admittance to the throne room:
The
lady wishing to be presented should be of good moral and social
character.
Presentation
had to be made by someone who had already been presented.
The
status of the actual presentee. The most obvious candidates, the
wives and daughters of the aristocracy, had the privilege of being
kissed by Queen Victoria (though no kisses were received if the
Princess of Wales were acting as stand-in, and the practice was
dropped entirely in the Edwardian era), then came the ranks of
those candidates whose presentation would be sealed by the action
of kissing the Queen’s hand. These included the daughters and
wives of the country gentry and Town gentry, of the clergy, of
naval and military officers, of professional men such as physicians
and barristers, of merchants, bankers and members of the Stock
Exchange, and “persons engaged in commerce on a large scale.”
Summonses
were sent out three weeks in advance, allowing ample time for the
excited debutante or newly married lady, to practice the complicated
court curtsy and order the regulated costume demanded for
presentation, as laid out, via the
Lord Chamberlain’s Office, in Lady Colin Campbell’s Manners
and Rules of Good Society,
1911 edition:
Full
Court Dress:
low bodice, short sleeves, and train to dress not less than three
yards in length from the shoulders. Whether the train is cut round or
square is a matter of inclination or fashion. The width at the end
should be 54 inches. It is also imperative that a presentation dress
should be white if the person presented be an unmarried lady and it
is also the fashion for married ladies to wear white on their
presentation unless their age rendered their doing so unsuitable The
white dresses worn by either debutante or married ladies may be
trimmed with either colored or white flowers according to individual
taste.
High
Court Dress:
dress of silk satin or velvet may be worn at Their Majesties Courts
and on other State occasions by ladies to whom from illness infirmity
or advancing age the present low Court dress is inappropriate.
Bodices in front cut square or heart shaped which may be filled in
with white only either transparent or lined at the back high or cut
down three quarters height. Sleeves to elbow either thick or
transparent. Trains, gloves, and feathers as usual. It is necessary
for ladies who wish to appear in High Court Dress to obtain Royal
permission through the Lord Chamberlain. This regulation does not
apply to ladies who have already received permission to wear high
dress.
White
gloves only should be worn excepting in case of mourning when black
or grey gloves are admissible. As a lady on presentation does not now
kiss the Queen’s hand as formerly she did she is not required to
remove the right hand glove before entering the Presence Chamber.
This order therefore is no longer in force and a lady wearing elbow
gloves and bracelets will find it a great convenience not to be to
take off her glove.
It
was compulsory for both Married and Unmarried Ladies to Wear Plumes.
The married lady’s Court plume consisted of three white feathers.
An unmarried lady’s of two white feathers. The three white feathers
should be mounted as a Prince of Wales plume and worn towards the
left hand side of the head. Colored feathers may not be worn. In deep
mourning, white feathers must be worn, black feathers are
inadmissible.
White
veils or lace lappets must be worn with the feathers. The veils
should not be longer than 45 inches.
Bouquets
are not included in the dress regulations issued by the Lord
Chamberlain although they are invariably carried by both married and
unmarried ladies. It is thus optional to carry a bouquet or not, and
some elderly ladies carry much smaller bouquets than do younger
ladies. A fan and a lace pocket handkerchief are also carried by a
lady on presentation or on attending a Court but these two items are
also altogether optional.
Armed
with the proper arsenal, the young lady or new wife was ready to
take London by storm. Queen Victoria held her presentations in the
afternoon at 3 o’clock, which caused a traffic snarl of monumental
proportions. It was common for the débutante to queue up in her
carriage for hours down The Mall towards Buckingham Palace, boxed in
on both sides by other equipages and the throng of curious onlookers.
Then, once she alighted from her carriage, there was another long
wait in the close, sweltering palace antechambers, where neither
refreshments nor relief were available.
The
young lady who persevered to the end, however, got her rewards.
Carrying her train over her left arm, she made her way through the
groups of attendants to the anteroom or corridor where one of the
lords-in-waiting, with his wand, spread out her train she’d let
down, and walked forward to the Throne Room.
Her
name was announced as she curtsied before the Queen, so low as to
almost kneel, and while doing such, she kissed the royal hand
extended to her, underneath which she placed her own ungloved right
hand. The peeress or daughter of a peer received a kiss from Queen
Victoria. When the Princess of Wales stood in for Her Majesty, the
lady being presented curtsied only and did not kiss the Princess’s
hand. After passing Her Majesty, the débutante curtsied to any of
the Princesses near her and retired backwards in what may be called a
succession of curtsies until she reached the threshold of the
doorway. The official in attendance replaced her train upon her arm
and the presentation was complete!
As
was stated above, the reception of a kiss on the cheek from the Queen
or the gift of one upon her hand was tossed out when Edward VII came
to the throne. Other, more important changes were made to the
presentation ceremony. Things were sped up by his reign, the drawing
rooms and levees switched to the evening and held in June; the
telephone used to summon a débutante’s transport, thus easing the
traffic; buffet supper, served from tables laid with gold plate
helped to revive waiting ladies; and the court photographers were
allotted a room for speedy snapshots of the women.
Levées
were conducted somewhat on the same plan as that of the Drawing room
but were confined exclusively to men who wear uniform or Court
dress. Hosted by the Prince of Wales, later the King, those entitled
to be presented to H.R.H./H.M. were members of the aristocracy and
gentry, the members of the diplomatic courts, the Cabinet and all
leading Government officials, Members of Parliament, leading members
of the legal profession, the naval and military professions, the
leading members of the clerical profession, the leading members of
the medical and artistic professions, the leading bankers merchants
and members of the Stock Exchange, and persons engaged in commerce on
a large scale. An exception to the rule as regards retail trade was
made in favor of any person receiving Knighthood ,or when holding the
office of Mayor, or being made a Justice of the Peace, or on
receiving a Commission in the Territorial forces.
The
workings of the levee were similar to those of the drawing rooms:
dates announced and names submitted, and specific court dress
required:
The
Dress to be worn at Courts State Functions and Levees: Full
dress uniform is invariably worn by all gentlemen entitled to wear
it. All officers Scottish kilted corps should wear the kilt
irrespective their being mounted officers or not. Gentlemen who do
not wear uniform may wear either velvet Court dress new style; velvet
Court dress old style; cloth Court dress.
The
new style velvet Court dress is of black silk velvet. The body of the
coat lined with white silk and the skirt with black silk. Steel
buttons. Waistcoat of white satin or black silk velvet. Breeches of
black silk velvet, black silk hose, patent leather shoes, steel
buckled, white bow necktie, white gloves, sword, black beaver or silk
cocked hat.
The
velvet Court dress old style is very similar to the foregoing with
the addition of a black silk wig bag at the back of the neck and lace
frills and ruffles.
The
cloth Court dress consists of a coat of dark mulberry claret or green
cloth with black silk linings, gold embroidery on collar, cuffs, and
pocket flaps, gilt buttons with Imperial Crown, waistcoat of white
corded silk or white Marcella, breeches of cloth color of coat, black
silk hose, patent leather shoes, sword, white bow necktie, white
gloves, black beaver or silk cocked hat.
On
certain days of the year, the so-called Collar days, high diplomatic
and distinguished personages wear the collars and badges of the
Garter, Thistle, St Patrick, Bath, and other Orders of Knighthood.
